@article{oai:ir.kagoshima-u.ac.jp:00004592,
 author = {西, 隆一郎 and NISHI, Ryuichiro and 佐藤, 道郎 and SATO, Michio and 中村, 和夫 and NAKAMURA, Kazuo},
 journal = {鹿児島大学工学部研究報告, The research reports of the Faculty of Engineering, Kagoshima University},
 month = {Nov},
 note = {Natural beach conditions are dominated by a random sea. Therefore, it is necessary to study beach processes due to random waves, in order to correlate knowledge gained from studies of regular wave conditions, and model experiments. It is also important to define regular wave characteristics for coastal and/or beach process experiments based on real random wave records. This paper is a result of laboratory studies of the following points: 1) The development of a measuring system which can simultaneously process a large amount of topography and wavｅ data. 2) The effect of wave irregularity on beach deformaition by the action of random waves, grouping waves and regular waves on the movable bed beaches, which consist of coarse (0.6mm) or fine sand (0.29mm). 3) The effect of three dimensional sediment transport on beach deformation. The results showed that. 1) The topography measuring instrument system with an A/D converter developed here, can collect numerous accurate data simultaneously. 2) Beach topographies due to similar energy flux waves result in different topographies. 3) Beach topographies due to the same representative wave height as regular wave height result in different topographies. 4) Critical water depeth for sediment movement due to random waves can be calculated by using significant wave characteristics. 5) There are cases where the direction of sediment drift differs from the corresponding longshore and rip-current directions. 6） Rhythmic topographies were observed in the inshore region of coarse and fine sand beaches, and were also observed in the offshore region of fine sand beaches.},
 pages = {151--164},
 title = {不規則波による海浜変形},
 volume = {31},
 year = {1989}
}